FLEET STREET



11am The Knight’s Templar, Chancery Lane

UPDATE:  Sadly, The Knight's Templar closed on March 18, 2023. It was the only Wetherspoons pub licensed to hold wedding ceremonies and had been offering packages for 100 guests with three bottles of house wine per table, a wedding planner, flowers, table decorations, and a live DJ, for around £5,000. The average UK wedding costs over £20,000.
     For an 11am start, I now have to nominate another Wetherspoons - The Shakespeare's Head which is half a mile from the Edgar Wallace. At least it has the advantage of being adjacent to Holborn tube station.

12pm The Edgar Wallace, Essex Street

 
   Edgar Wallace was a patron and his bust is in the pub. The crime writer was a war correspondent for Reuters and the Daily Mail and also the BBC’s first sports reporter. When he died in 1933 he was writing the screenplay for King Kong.

    The landlord didn’t like the colour of the red ceiling but wasn’t allowed to paint it. So he covered it with beer mats.

    It’s also worth checking out the dining room upstairs for the old advertising posters and Edgar Wallace library. 

1pm The Old Bank of England, Fleet Street …… lunch with the Reuters Regulars




St Dunstan-in-the-West

 The clock on the front of the church was first erected there in 1671. It was the first public clock in London to have a minute hand.

     It chimes every quarter of an hour with the figures of giants (probably Gog and Magog) turning their heads and striking the bells with their clubs.

     The statue (1586) of Queen Elizabeth 1 outside St Dunstan’s is believed to be the only remaining statue of The Virgin Queen carved in her lifetime.

 Dr Johnson’s House, Gough Square

    The house where great lexicographer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his great Dictionary of the English Language is open to the public.

    His masterwork was published in two volumes in 1755 and, until the publication of the Oxford English Dictionary 173 years later, it was considered to be the definitive English dictionary.

     A statue of Hodge, Dr Johnson’s cat, stands in front of the house, sitting alongside oyster shells atop his master’s dictionary.  In those days oysters were cheap and Johnson bought them for Hodge.

Some original entries from Dr Johnson’s dictionary ……

Distiller: One who makes and sells pernicious and inflammatory spirits.

Jobbernowl: Loggerhead; blockhead.

Kickshaw: A dish so changed by the cookery that it can scarcely be known.

Excise: a hateful tax levied upon commodities and adjudged not by the common judges of property but wretches hired by those to whom excise is paid.

Ruse: a French word neither elegant nor necessary.

Patron: a wretch who supports with insolence, and is paid with flattery.

Pension: an allowance. In England it is generally understood to mean pay given to a state   hireling for treason to his country.

Politian: one versed in the arts of government, a man of artifice; one of deep contrivance.

Cynanthropy: A species of madness in which men have the qualities of dogs.

Dull: Not exhilarating; not delightful: as, to make dictionaries is dull work.

Fart: Wind from behind.

Mouth friend: One who professes friendship without intending it.

Slubberdegullion: A paltry, dirty, sorry wretch.

To worm: To deprive a dog of something, nobody knows what, under his tongue, which is said to prevent his, nobody knows why, from running mad.

Lizard: as “an animal resembling a serpent, with legs added to it.”

Oats: a grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people.

Lexicographer a harmless drudge who busies himself in tracing the original and detailing the signification of words.

2.30pm Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Fleet Street

   
    Dr Johnson was a patron of this legendary pub and chop house (est 1667), as were Voltaire, Alfred Lord Tennyson, G K Chesterton, W M Thackeray, Mark Twain, Arthur Conan Doyle, W B Yates and Charles Dickens (of course).

     But perhaps the Cheshire Cheese’s most celebrated wordsmith was Polly, a foul-mouthed African grey parrot. When, in 1926, Polly eventually kicked the bucket/ceased to be/passed on/was bereft of life/ran down the curtain and joined the choir invisible, etc, over 200 newspapers worldwide ran her obituary. Polly was lovingly stuffed and can still be found in the dining room. Also in the 1920s, patrons were offered free pipes and tobacco.

     The Parrot Sketch … https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnciwwsvNcc&t=39s

     Our former colleague Derek Martin was the cameraman for the Michael Palin close-ups.

Telegraph and Express Buildings


Reuters Building

St Bride’s Church

    St Brides Church is one of the oldest in London and the ‘spiritual home of the media’. The present church was built by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire boasting, at 235 ft, his tallest spire. The church was the inspiration for the traditional tiered wedding cake. The original was made by local baker William Rich to impress his new bride.

    Bombing in 1940 badly damaged the church, although the spire remained intact. During the renovation the remains of a Roman house was discovered. There are many dedications to journalists, especially those persecuted, and a small museum in the crypt.

    With no sense of irony, Rupert Murdoch, the man who destroyed Fleet Street, had his 2016 marriage to Jerry Hall blessed at St Bride’s.

3.30pm The Old Bell Tavern, Fleet Street

     Established in 1678, The Old Bell is the oldest pub in Fleet Street. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren for the stonemasons working on St Bride’s.

4.30pm The Punch Tavern, Fleet Street

5.30pm The Black Friar, Queen Victoria Street


Appendix:

El Vino’s Wine Bar, Fleet Street 

   On another occasion, in the interest of research, I made a pilgrimage to Fleet Street’s legendary journalists watering hole.

    El Vino’s was founded in 1879.  Women were not allowed in the bar until 1982, and then only because of a court order; even then they weren’t allowed to wear trousers.

     At the time of my visit hospitality had only just reopened; I was their only lunchtime booking so it was a bit dead. The ribeye steak was good, but rather pricey. And I could have done without the two green peppers which brought tears to my eyes. I would guess they would be about 50,000 on the Scoville Heat Unit scale which is based on the number of drops of water to make the taste of chilli peppers undetectable.

September, 2023: Canadian speed-eater Mike Jack set a new world record for eating 50 Carolina Reaper peppers in six minutes and 49.2 seconds. He went on to eat a further 85 peppers, the second highest in one sitting, 25 less than Australian Greg 'Iron Guts' Barlow. Guinness World Records

The Tipperary, Fleet Street



Thursday, August 18

     There’s a historical exhibition of BBC TV graphics in Fleet Street …..

    I have to say you suddenly feel old when, with no warning, you find your name on a museum piece …

                       ..... click here.   

                  

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