FREEDOM PASS WETHERSPOONS PART 2

FREEDOM PASS WETHERSPOONS PART 2

     I have to say I'm enjoying this more than I expected. I've lived in London for over 50 years but I'm suddenly finding plenty of interesting places (like Slough!) I've never considered visiting before; and they are all close to somewhere I know has coffee, food, beer and toilets all day long.

     I make no apologies for writing more about my Wanstead base camp ....

The George - Wanstead (part 2)
    Criminal Harry Roberts lived in Wanstead for much of his life - apart from the 48 years he spent in prison for murdering three unarmed policemen. When he was born in 1936 his parents were managing The George. Roberts was released in 2014. His current whereabouts are unknown. I'll keep my eyes open whilst avoiding eye contact.

The Ice Wharf - Camden
      The Ice Wharf can be found alongside the Regent's Canal. It is in the heart of Camden Market (or Camden Lock) which is in fact a number of adjoining markets boasting 'over 1,000 unique shops, stalls, bars and cafes'. The pub is named after the adjacent Ice Wharf, built in 1837 to store ice imported from Norway. The wooden sculpture, commissioned by Wetherspoons, is William Le Twich's Ice Picker, by the charmingly named Chainsaw Mick.
     Camden market is open throughout the week but go at the weekends if you like crowds .....
    The statue (top left) is, unmistakably, the late Amy Winehouse. Amy - the movie of her life - is scheduled for release in April 2024 - you can check out the trailer here.
    
    Perhaps the most famous house in Camden is 23 Gloucester Crescent ....
     Playwright Alan Bennett lived here for about 40 years. For fifteen of those years, until her death in 1989, a homeless woman, Margaret Fairchild (aka Miss Shepherd) lived in her van parked in Bennett's drive. Bennett's The Lady in the Van, became a successful 1999 play and 2015 film, both starring Maggie Smith as Miss Shepherd.

The Moon Under Water - Colindale


     Another of the six London Spoons referencing George Orwell's perfect pub, this building was previously Woolworths, from 1939 to 1984.
    
     This Moon Under Water seems to be very much a 'locals' pub - where the locals are perhaps the most racially diverse in London, very evident in the pub. The most spoken foreign language in Colindale is Romanian. There is also a large Chinese population, well-served by Colindale's sprawling Bang Bang Oriental Foodhall.
     Apart from the mandatory picture of George Orwell in the pub, there are others reflecting the early days of aviation, Colindale being the location of one of the world's first aerodromes, with powered flights from as early as 1909. Despite being in Colindale it was named Hendon Aerodrome. The last aircraft landed there in 1968. The RAF Museum now stands on the site.
    Claude-Grahame-White (above) was a dashing aviation pioneer, one of the first Englishmen to qualify as a pilot, having enrolled at Louis Blériot's flying school in France. He established a flying school at Hendon Aerodrome in 1911. I hope he put that cigarette out when refuelling.

The Moon Under Water - Enfield
    You wait ages for one Moon Under Water then two turn up at once ....
     This building is the former British School. It opened in 1838, with two classrooms, each measuring 40x30 feet, one for boys and one for girls. The school closed in 1901 and was then used as a public hall, a dairy and a restaurant. 
    I was looking forward to checking out this magnificent stained-glass window (above, left) pictured on the Wetherspoons website. But alas, it is no more. The chef fondly remembered it but couldn't shed any light on why it was no longer there. There is a portrait of  George Orwell on the menu ....

     The world's first cash machine was installed in Barclays Bank, Enfield Town ....

    Invented by John Shepherd-Barron the ATM (Automated Teller Machine) was opened by comic actor and Enfield resident Reg Varney on June 27, 1967.
    The first machines didn't use debit cards but cheques impregnated with radioactive carbon-14 which was matched with a four-digit PIN. Shepherd-Barron had considered using six-digit PINs but his wife told him she would struggle remembering more than four numbers. So four numbers became the universal standard.
     Withdrawals from the first Barclaycash machines were limited to £10, "quite enough for a wild weekend" according to Shepherd-Barron.
    The gold ATM on the side of the bank was installed on the 50th anniversary of the original.
    It is somewhat ironic that a device largely responsible for the demise of many high street banks has probably saved Barclays Enfield Town branch.

The Mossy Well - Muswell Hill
     Muswell Hill has no train or tube station. So I take the train to Alexandra Palace and walk through Alexandra Park to The Mossy Well for lunch.
 
     Alexandra Palace was originally built by John Johnson and Alfred Meeson. It opened in 1873, burnt down two weeks later, and was then rebuilt by Johnson. When the BBC started the world's first TV service from Alexandra Palace in 1936 their definition of 'high definition' was rather different to what we watch today. Click here for that first broadcast - although the quality of this film is certainly superior to the actual electronic pictures viewers saw on their TV screens. 
     The BBC left "Ally Pally" in 1981. But it continues to operate with a theatre and ice rink. It also serves as an events venue, notably beer festivals and darts tournaments. Most recently it hosted the 2024 Masters Snooker, hitting the headlines when Ronnie O'Sullivan slammed the facilities, saying "I can't wait to get out of here" - before going on to win the tournament.
    The first ever Wetherspoons pub was in Muswell Hill, but this isn't it; that was Martin's Free House which opened in 1979 and renamed Wetherspoons a month later. It closed long ago.
    The Mossy Well is much bigger than it appears from the road. Inside it is on two spacious levels with a patio at the back. The building was for many years the Express Dairy tea room, with a milk depot at the rear.
     Muswell Hill is named after a medieval well. Water from the 'mossy well' was thought to have healing properties after Scottish King Malcolm IV drank from it and was cured of disease. Don't read too much into this as Malcolm was in poor health for much of his reign and died aged twenty-four.

The Rochester Castle - Stoke Newington

     Lots of famous people have lived in Stoke Newington; but not many have a road named after them. Daniel Defoe famously wrote Robinson Crusoe, claimed to be second only to the Bible in its number of translations. It was my favourite book as a kid, and offset my ignorance of Shakespeare and Chaucer for English Literature O-level (grade 4). Defoe was actually born Daniel Foe and his outspoken views certainly made him plenty of enemies.
     Methinks the mini cab company are missing a trick here: How about - "Marooned? Crusoe Cars will get you home safely". They are manned on Fridays.
     A little further along Church Street from Defoe Road is the rare sighting of a well-preserved Banksy .....
    ...... The Royal Family, appeared in 2001. You can see where, in 2009, Hackney Council workers started to black it out before being thwarted by local protesters.

Rockingham Arms - Elephant and Castle
    The Rockingham Arms is an airy establishment with a smart interior and pristine carpets  thanks to a recent £1.5 million refurbishment.
    Charles Watson-Wentworth, the 2nd Marquis of Rockingham was twice British PM during the 18th century. He never lived in this area but several streets were named after him. 
    The Elephant and Castle area is named after a pub of the same name which started as a blacksmith's forge in 1614. The iconic statue (above right) was salvaged from the original pub. It has recently been restored and temporarily placed in Castle Square. The statue will eventually be moved to the new Elephant shopping mall currently under construction.
      The original Elephant and Castle pub stood on the roundabout which is now the site of an unusual memorial .....
           .... in memory of the great Victorian scientist Michael Faraday  who was born locally. 
     The stainless steel structure was built in 1961 and contains (appropriately) an electrical substation for the Northern and Bakerloo tube lines. The intention was for it to be made of glass so the workings of the transformer were visible; but the possibility of vandalism prevented this. In 1996 it was awarded Grade II listed building status.
     Top trivia: Apart from Elephant and Castle, there are four other London Underground stations named after pubs - Royal Oak, Swiss Cottage, Manor House and Angel.

     The Imperial War Museum is a shortish walk from Elephant and Castle ....
      I was last there around 18 months ago, click here. But there are two excellent new exhibitions to see. Both are free ....
    On the left are footprint overshoes from the Spies, Lies and Deception exhibition (until April 14, 2024). During the Second World War they were used by agents operating in South-East Asia to disguise someone's footprints - and also the direction they were walking in.
    On the right is Gassed, the very familiar painting by American John Singer Sergent from the First World War. It is part of the permanent Blavatnik Art, Film and Photography Galleries in the IWM.

J. J. Moons - Tooting
                                                                                       The statue is of Edward VII.
     There are five J. J. Moons in London. This one is narrow and quite cramped, so not really suitable for groups greater than four - and it's busy at lunchtime.
     Tooting has a large British Asian community and has gained the nickname "land of the curry mile" due to the concentration of South Asian restaurants. Mayor of London Sadiq Khan was born in Tooting to a British Pakistani family. "We lived in a council flat and my father was a bus driver" was pretty much his catch phrase when on the campaign trail. He still occasionally uses the words ironically.

The Beehive - Brixton

      Brixton is a multi-ethnic community, with a large proportion of its population of Afro-Caribbean descent. The first wave of immigrants, 'The Windrush Generation', arrived from Jamaica in 1948 on the Empire Windrush. The National Windrush Monument (above, right) can be seen at Waterloo Station. It was unveiled, rather belatedly, in 2022.
     Brixton may have had a troubled past but that is firmly behind this vibrant community either through regeneration or gentrification, probably a combination of the two. Now there's a nice  friendly vibe here from the guy playing the steel drum outside the station, then along Electric Avenue into Brixton Market. The street art is not too shabby either.
     The Beehive takes its name from Beehive Place to the rear. It was for many years a shoe shop which first opened in 1909. The walls are adorned with an array of reminders of the many colourful characters who have lived in Brixton. These include politician Herbert Morrison, writer John Ruskin, Vincent Van Gogh, Charlie Chaplin and comedian George Robey, the self-styled 'Prime Minister of Mirth' - not something that would have been used to describe John Major. The 'Grey Major' lived in Brixton from the age of twelve after his family had fallen on hard times. Like Sadiq Khan, he wasn't slow to play on his humble beginnings - his campaign poster leading up to the 1992 election read "What does the Conservative Party offer a working class kid from Brixton? They made him Prime Minister."
     The Beehive is small by Spoons standards, and in the centre of Brixton. So, tables are hard to come by at lunchtime.
   
     Charlie lived at 15 Glenshaw Mansions, Vincent at 87 Hackford Road, neither of them for long. There is also a street, Van Gogh Walk, named after the artist.
     Other A-listers who (literally) spent time in the area are Bertrand Russell, Oswald Mosley, Ronnie and Reggie Kray, and Mick Jagger. But it's unlikely any of them will be honoured with a plaque on the wall of Brixton Prison.

J. J. Moons - Hornchurch
     Edward the Confessor held his Court in Hornchurch, and may have died there. He was certainly in the area for a great deal of his life.
     I'd not been to this pub before. But I had been to Queen's Theatre in Hornchurch and with a bit of reverse engineering stumbled upon Wilko, the 'world premier' of a new play about the life of Dr Feelgood lead guitarist Wilko Johnson. 
                                                  Railway Hotel, Southend-on-Sea
     I saw Dr Feelgood a few times in the 70s. They were superb live. Wilko was known for his distinctive fingerstyle, enabling him to play rhythm guitar and riffs at the same time. In January 2013 he was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer and given less than a year to live. He elected not to have chemotherapy and enjoy what time he had left, embarking on a farewell tour. It was later discovered he had a less aggressive form of the disease and he lived until November 2022.
     Wilko's final days were spent in Southend, receiving the ultimate accolade of having his image displayed on a pub sign - that of his local, The Railway Hotel. The pub closed recently so I don't know if the sign still exists. Hobbsy, my Southend stringer, is checking. It can still be seen on Streetview. Update (Feb 2024): The sign is still there.
     The Railway Hotel would make a great Wetherspoons, possibly renamed The Wilko Johnson, or Wilkover the Moon, or The John Wilkinson, his real name. However, this is unlikely as it's practically next door to an existing Spoons, The Last Post.

The Masque Haunt - Shoreditch
     Masques became a popular form of entertainment amongst the nobility during the reign of Henry VIII. A masque consisted of dancing and acting performed by masked players.
     This being Shoreditch, many famous people have connections with the area. An eclectic selection are featured on the walls here including Edward IVs mistress Jane Shore, writers John Bunyan and Daniel Defoe, founder of Methodism John Wesley and, er, Barbara Windsor.     
     The story that Jane Shore died in a ditch, giving Shoreditch its name is probably fake news.
    If you can see your way to visiting here without making a spectacle of yourself, The Masque Haunt is convenient for Moorfields Eye Hospital.

The Railway Bell - Barnet
      As I hit roughly what is the half-way point/pint I discover what might be the best London Spoons so far, The Railway Bell.
    This spacious pub has a very relaxed atmosphere with a snug and large conservatory. There's also a beer garden with a 'no smoking' area. And bottomless coffee is only £1.06. 
     On the northern fringe of Greater London, it's not exactly handy, but only three minutes walk from New Barnet station (trains from Moorgate).
     The Railway Bell was built not long after the station was opened in 1850 to help develop the area. Barnet is now the second-most populous London borough.
     I'm always on the lookout for interesting diversions when planning Spoons visits, e.g. museums, galleries, concerts, parks, etc. On this occasion I decided to do my weekly grocery shop at New Barnet Sainsburys. It has free parking for two hours. And Nectar points.

STILL TO DO ...
The Willow Walk, Victoria SW1V 1LW
The Brockley Barge - Brockley SE4 2RR
The Fox on the Hill - Camberwell SE5 8EH
The Goodman's Field - Tower Hamlets E1 8AN
The Great Harry - Woolwich SE18 6PQ
The Holland Tringham - Streatham SW16 1HJ
The Kentish Drovers - Peckham SE15 5RS
The London & Rye - Catford SE6 4AF
The Metropolitan Bar - Marylebone NW1 5LD
The Plough and Harrow - Hammersmith W6 0QU
The Rocket - Putney SW15 2JQ
The Surrey Docks - Rotherhithe SE16 2LW
The Watch House - Lewisham SE13  6JP
The William Morris - Hammersmith W6 0QA
The Willow Walk - Victoria SW1V 1LW
The Beaten Docket - Cricklewood NW2 3ET
The Coronation Hall - Surbiton KT6 4LQ
The Furze Wren - Bexleyheath DA6 7DY 
The George - Croydon CR0 1LA
The Good Yarn - Uxbridge UB8 1JX 
The Greenwood Hotel - Northolt UB5 4LA 
The Greyhound - Bromley BR1 INY
J.J. Moon's - Kingsbury NW9 9EL
J.J. Moon's - Wembley HA9 6AA
The Barking Dog - Barking IG11 8TU currently closed for refurbishment.
J.J. Moon's - Ruislip Manor HA4 0AA
The King's Tun - Kingston 8KT1 1QT
The Moon & Stars - Penge SE20 7QS
The Moon Under Water - Norbury SW16 4AU
The Moon Under Water - Hounslow TW3 3LF
The Moon Under Water - Watford WD17 2BS
The Moon and Sixpence - Hatch End HA5 4HS
The Moon on the Hill - Sutton SM1 1DZ
The Moon on the Square - Feltham TW13 4AU
The New Cross Turnpike - Welling DA16 3PB
The New Crown - Southgate N14 5PH
The Nonsuch Inn - North Cheam SM3 9AA
The Red Lion & Pineapple - Acton W3 9PB
The Richmal Crompton -  Bromley BR1 1DS
The Sir Julian Huxley - Selsdon CR2 8LB
The Sovereign of the Seas - Petts Wood BR5 1DG
Spouter's Corner - Wood Green N22 6EJ
The Tailor's Chalk - Sidcup DA14 6ED
The Tichenham Inn - Ickenham UB10 8DF
The Village Inn - Rayners Lane HA5 5DY
The Whispering Moon - Wallington SM6 8QF
The Wibbas Down Inn - Wimbledon SW19 1QT
The William Webb Ellis - Twickenham TW1 3RR
The Wrong 'Un - Bexleyheath DA6 8AS
The Star Light - Heathrow Airport Terminal 4 (airside, opens 0530) 

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